DIY step-by-step instructions for repairing an electric kettle
The question of sending electric kettles for repair is decided after receiving the conclusion of the service department. But is it worth spending time discussing with specialists if it is possible to solve the problem on your own? The device of a household appliance is not as complicated as it seems. Having studied the main units, the principle of their operation, probable malfunctions, the restoration of the electric kettle will be within the reach of home craftsmen.
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- 1 Principle of operation and electrical diagram
- 2 How to repair with your own hands
- 2.1 How to disassemble
- 2.2 If the appliance does not heat the water, but the light is on
- 2.3 Does not heat the water, the light does not come on
- 2.4 Premature disconnection of the kettle
- 2.5 How to Fix Water Leaks
- 2.6 How to remove rust
- 2.7 Replacing the spiral heating element
- 2.8 Replacement of the disc heater
- 2.9 How to connect directly
- 3 When can I return to the store
- 4 Rules of operation
Principle of operation and electrical diagram
Before proceeding to the diagnosis, repair of a household kettle, you will need to find out what components it consists of, how it works. Despite the abundance of offers under different brands, all electrical appliances in this category have a similar device.They include the following parts:
- Frame;
- power indicator;
- a heating element;
- control system (power button, thermostat);
- stand with power cord and contact block.
Connections in the internal communication circuit are made by means of captive terminals, less often by soldering. After installing the kettle filled with water on the stand and pressing the button, the power supply circuits of the device are closed. This is accompanied by a light indication that everything is working. If at this point there is no contact between the support and the bottom of the device, the switch is defective, nothing will work.
In addition, a heating element (spiral or disc) installed in the lower part gradually brings the water in the tank to the boil. After boiling, the automation turns off the power supply to the heater (the light goes out with a characteristic click). If there is not enough water in the kettle, or it was inadvertently turned on empty, the protection system should also work, disconnecting the supply circuits.
Electric kettle sets
Old models with spiral heating elements and new models with disc-shaped heating elements remain similar in their principle of operation, in the presence of main units. They will certainly have a heating element, a power button and a protection unit. The kettle will not work without them.
Overheat protection system
This unit is necessary to ensure fire safety requirements. Without it, then with an insufficient water level, turning on an empty kettle, a fire would certainly have occurred. So, a special contact group will turn off the heating element.
As a working tool, a special plate of 2 metals is used, which reacts to heating.The normal position is closed, when the bimetallic strip overheats, it deforms, breaks the power supply circuit, turning off the heating element. Manufacturers of household appliances use a number of standard solutions for this device. And all of them use bimetallic sensors, which are reliable and efficient.
The only drawback of thermal protection is the need to wait for the working part to cool down and return to its original position. The kettle is then ready for use again.
Automatic shut-off system when water boils
Another critical knot, without which the normal operation of the kettle is impossible. The procedure to which they are so accustomed that they do not pay attention is the automatic shutdown of the device after heating the water. It is not by chance that manufacturers emphasize in the instructions for use the pouring of liquid into the flask to a clearly marked level (corresponding to the nominal capacity). The actuation of the circuit breaker under the influence of a steam jet depends on this.
At the heart of the protection is another bimetallic group, which, when heated, breaks the power circuit of the heating element of the kettle.
Power indicator and backlight
Each model has a power indicator light: without it, it is difficult to determine the status of the device. This is an interlocked bulb with the "main" button contacts. Backlight is optional. Some manufacturers include it as an option. It works synchronously with the switching on (switching off) of the kettle.
How to repair with your own hands
Before seriously tackling the repair of the kettle, you need to understand the probable causes of the malfunction, passing the consequences. There are several of them :
- The appliance turns on, but the water boil sensor does not work.
- Unable to press the on/off button on the device.
- The light comes on, nothing else happens.
Each situation requires a detailed examination, as the range of causes is on the ground, from a bad contact to a burnt out heating element. And not all of them can be eliminated alone. But before, you will need, armed with a screwdriver, carefully disassemble the kettle without damaging it.
How to disassemble
You will need a screwdriver, usually a flat or Phillips screwdriver. In rare cases, the manufacturer uses non-standard solutions for which it is not so easy to select the tool (triangular notch).
If the kettle has a stand, it is immediately set aside and water is poured out of the device itself.
Next, unscrew the screws that secure the parts of the plastic case. They can be hidden under decorative overlays. In combination with self-tapping screws, latches are used. It is very important not to destroy them when dismantling the kettle.
If the appliance does not heat the water, but the light is on
You don't need to be a great electrical engineer to figure it out: the kettle is powered from the mains, but something is further disrupting normal operation. This must be discovered by examining the components of the device.
It often happens that the air contacts of the heating element have weakened (oxidized), an open circuit has occurred in the conductors. Breakdown of the heater occurs less often. If the heating element is embedded in the bottom of the kettle (and burnt out), you will have to forget about the restoration.
Restoring contact in the removable terminals
It is difficult to visually calculate this malfunction. Having reached the heating element of the kettle, slightly pulling on the terminals, they check the reliability of the contacts. If necessary, gently bend the edges, taking care not to damage the insulation and the wire itself. This is done when the device is powered off, disconnected from the network.
Another clear sign of a problem with the terminals is the presence of traces of a short circuit, soot, melted insulation, burning of the contact plate. Depending on the skill level, methods of restoring (replacing) bollards are used, cleaning with fine sandpaper.
Restoration of soldered contacts
If there is a break at the welding site, it will not work to restore their integrity in home conditions. It is necessary to choose one of the repair options: soldering, mechanical connection.The chosen method should ensure reliable operation of the kettle for a long time, so it is better to think carefully which one to give preference to.
Does not heat the water, the light does not come on
The answer seems simple: in this situation, no power is supplied to the device. But what exactly is the reason for this "behavior" - a faulty socket (plug), poor contact of the kettle with the stand, failure of the switch - and we need to find out.
Repair contact group
Most modern teapots are designed in the same way: a base-support connected to the network and the device itself. The weak point of this design is the contact group through which the electric current is transmitted to the kettle. If water, dirt gets on the metal, it oxidizes, the work will become unstable.Usually the problem is solved by wiping the contacts on the bottom and backing, less often by cleaning with a fine emery cloth. In the most difficult situations, individual elements will have to be replaced.
If the matter was precisely in this malfunction, then after its elimination the kettle will begin to work flawlessly.
How to Fix a Switch Button
In the practice of using teapots, there are situations when the plastic button "falls" into the body parts. Repair is not always possible, since the master will have to work with plastic, metal, as well as an understanding of what and where to restore. This is the key axis or counterpart.
circuit breaker repair
The switch fails for various reasons: marriage, operating conditions, initially poor quality of the device (in inexpensive models). According to common circuits, the switch block itself is located in the handle (top) or in the bottom of the kettle.
Thus, when the power button is pressed, control is transferred directly to the electrical device or to it, but through the pushers.
The switch accounts for a significant share of breakdowns in the operation of kettles: a bimetallic plate is built into it, a large electric current acts. Sometimes it is enough to gently clean slightly burnt contacts with an alcohol-soaked ear stick, fine sandpaper.
Premature disconnection of the kettle
If the device works, then suddenly turns off, the problem lies in the automation. This is a failure of the protection against overheating, poor contact, oxidation of the bimetallic strip. All components are checked sequentially, looking for a problem.
How to Fix Water Leaks
Leaks on the body, thin jets of water are signs of a violation of the tightness of the kettle flask. And then it is necessary to locate the leak, determine the advisability of eliminating it and start fixing it.
Where can it form
Most often, leaks are detected at the joints, along the joint between the bottom and the cylindrical part, on the gluing of a measured transparent insert.
At the junction of the measuring window with the body
You can try to seal the defect with silicone sealant. The complexity of the situation lies in the fact that the chosen glue will come into contact with water, so it must be neutral, harmless to humans.
Crack in the plastic casing
The destruction of the housing, which is made of heat-resistant and durable plastic, is practically irreparable. Unfortunately you will have to buy a new kettle as the crack will get wider.
Metallic background disc docking place with kettle ball
It is found in devices with a glass bulb. In rare cases, metal degradation occurs due to corrosion. Welding or silicone sealing of the joint may be recommended.
The choice of mastic for gluing
Silicone must comply with sanitary standards, withstand high temperatures and not visually detach from the bottom of the case. From practice it is known that you can use a conventional sealant, only after it has solidified it is necessary to change the water in the kettle several times before drinking it.
Gluing parts
Before gluing, the old silicone is removed, the contact surfaces are cleaned and degreasing is carried out. Apply the putty in a thin layer so that no air bubbles form.Excess silicone from the connected parts is carefully removed with a damp cloth.
Leak test
After the silicone has solidified, a leak test is carried out: water is poured into the flask and the body of the kettle is carefully examined. There should be no leaks.
How to remove rust
Unsightly plaque on the walls, the bottom of the kettle can be removed with citric acid. Just pour the bottle for a few minutes and then rinse it out.
Replacing the spiral heating element
If the spiral heating element, which was installed in older models of teapots, is broken (burned out), it is easy to replace. But first you have to make sure that the problem is with him.
Replacement of the disc heater
The heating disc located at the bottom of the device (not to be confused with the support with which modern kettles are equipped) is not repairable. According to the design, it is allowed to replace it with a new one.
How to connect directly
This type of switching is used when checking the heating element, when all other units of the kettle are excluded from diagnostics. For this, it is necessary to fix the contact terminals on the power cable, and then isolate the places of installation. Then the plug is inserted into the socket, the kettle should start working. This method is not recommended for long-term use of the device due to its hazardous nature.
When can I return to the store
Return to the distribution network is possible if the seals are kept, there is no trace of the kettle being opened, as well as during the warranty period. When contacting the store, the buyer presents a user manual with a completed warranty card and the defective device itself.
Rules of operation
The kettle must not be dropped, used for other purposes or used in any way not provided for in the instructions. Do not switch on the device with a faulty mains plug, damaged insulation - this can be life-threatening.