Growing and caring for an azalea at home after purchase

Florists offer a wide selection of indoor plants that look healthy and attractive. A lush flowering bush is impossible not to notice on the counter, but at home the flower can lose its exquisite beauty. Caring for an azalea at home after purchase requires a special approach, since the plant must adapt to the new climate. With proper care, the flower grows vigorously, and new buds appear regularly.

Description and characteristics of the plant

The pretty azalea flower belongs to the genus Rhododendron of the heather family. The bushes still retain their green color, without losing foliage in the cold season, but, on the contrary, are covered with large inflorescences. The color of the petals can be pink, white, red and even purple. At the same time, the buds have no aroma. The stems of houseplants are slightly pubescent, hairs may also be present on small lanceolate leaves.

Care and landing

After purchasing the plant, it is important to create suitable conditions for azaleas. It is advisable not to carry the flower to the street without packaging, which should be removed only at home no earlier than half an hour later. Within 2-3 weeks, the azaleas should be dormant, not placed near other plants or transplanted. It is best to place the pot in partial shade and maintain the required level of humidity in the soil and foliage.

Some fungicides can be added to irrigation water to prevent the weakening of flower diseases.

Adjustment period

After the azalea has rested, the plant begins to adapt to the new conditions. This is a fairly long process that ends only when the first flowering ends. During habituation, the bush is particularly sensitive to humidity, cooling, temperature and nutrients:

• the room should be cool;
• the plant does not need additional fertilizers;
• the humidity should not be low;
• for the formation of immunity, biostimulants can be used in small doses.

Lighting

Sunlight is detrimental to the condition of the azalea. Direct rays should be attenuated, but not completely eliminated. Partial shade or low natural light conditions are best. In thick clouds, the azalea can be taken out to the balcony or terrace; in this case, you can not be afraid of summer rains. In the south, the flower can be grown in the open field, placing it in the shade of trees and shrubs. In this case, the plant needs mandatory protection from possible frosts.

Temperature

For a full growing season, it is advisable to provide the azalea with the appropriate amount of heat for the season. The peculiarity of the plant is that flowering corresponds to the winter period.At this time, an ambient temperature of 18-20 ° C is suitable for the bush. In summer, the air in the room should not exceed 23 ° C, and the flower itself should not be placed near air conditioners. In the fall, the plant is laying buds for next year , at this time the azaleas need a low temperature, around 12°C.

Humidity

A high humidity index is necessary for azaleas to fully develop. To maintain this indicator, you need:

• spray the bush during flowering;
• put the pot in a deep tray filled with water and pebbles;
• with a location close to heating devices, increase the frequency of spraying the plant;
• use the spray gun with the smaller holes.

How to water

Watering the azalea should be vigorous, but not excessive. The most appropriate hydration schedule is once every 2 days. In the fall, the period of watering the plant can be shortened.

When growing a bush in peat soil, there is a risk that the earth will harden, so you can partially moisten the soil by placing the pot in water.

The flower tends to leach out the soil it grows in, so you can occasionally add a little citric acid to the water for irrigation.

Water requirements

Appropriate water for irrigating azaleas should have the following characteristics:

• the temperature is equal to or higher than the ambient temperature;
• absence of impurities, for this, water can be boiled in advance or rain and melt water can be used after settling.

Soil composition

The azalea, unlike most houseplants, prefers acidified soil. Therefore, the flowerpot should be filled with one of the soil options:

• a special substrate for azaleas;
• ground suitable for heather;
• homemade soil mixture of conifers and bogs in a ratio of 2: 1 with the addition of a small amount of clean river sand;
• use hydroponics.

Pinch and trim

Regular pruning helps form the crown, and pinching the shoots helps increase the number of flowers. Over time, the flower can grow into a compact bush or a lushly flowering small tree. It is necessary to cut the azalea very carefully, following the rules exactly:

1. Use only special gardening tools.
2. Do not prune the plant the first time before May.
3. New pruning is carried out only after the appearance of buds.
4. Cut thick and undersized branches.
5. Remove flowers one by one after flowering.

New young shoots need to be pinched so that buds form and flowering is more lush.

After flowering

At the end of flowering, the plant must be prepared for the dormant period:

1. Remove the dried inflorescences.
2. Remove stems that are too long and thin.
3. Pinch young branches.
4. Healthy cut shoots can be rooted.
5. Apply high nitrogen fertilizers.

Fertilizers and Growth Stimulants

Depending on the season, the azalea requires a different type of feed:

1. In summer, it is necessary to increase the mineral content of the soil. Every week, the plant should be watered with a fertilizer solution, a universal non-chlorine solution or a special one for azaleas is suitable.
2. In winter, the plant requires fewer additional nutrients. It is enough to add phosphorus and potassium compounds monthly during the entire flowering period.
3. In the spring after flowering, shoot growth can be stimulated by adding nitrogen fertilizers.

How to transplant correctly

It is worth thinking about transplanting an azalea if the plant does not grow for a long time and the soil quickly loses moisture. An appropriate time for handling is at the end of flowering. The procedure for moving a bush to a new pot is simple:

1. Choose a new wide container with a shallow depth, wider than the existing one.
2. Lay a drainage made of expanded clay, clay bedding or pebbles at the bottom of the pot.
3. Put a layer of pine bark on top.
4. Remove the azalea from the pot, keeping the soil on the roots.
5. Soak the rhizome in Kornevin's solution for a few minutes.
6. Place the plant in a pot and cover with new potting soil, keeping the root above the surface.
7. Pour water on the bush with Kornevin or Zircon.

It is important to remember that if the soil is prepared on its own, then the mixture must first be disinfected.

the reproduction

There are several ways to get new azalea bushes home:

1. Cuttings. Having prepared a suitable container with soil, cut several flower shoots about 9 cm long, cut at an angle, close to the leaf or bud. Remove the lower leaves from the cuttings, soak them for several hours in a root growth agent. Then bury the cuttings in moist soil for 4 cm and cover with aluminum foil. The stems should be kept at a temperature of around 24°C and sprinkled with water daily.
2. Division. A shrub over 3 years old can be divided into several parts. To do this, the plant is pulled out of the ground, keeping the roots, and planted in separate pots, as when transplanting.
3. Layers.The lower shoots of the azalea can be slightly bent and pressed to the ground, buried in the central part. After a few months, after the formation of a new root system, the plant can be divided.
4. Seeds. The indoor azalea rarely produces fruit from which seeds can be obtained; this method is more often used to create new varieties of flowers.

Diseases and pests

The azalea is rarely prone to infection and insect infestation, however, improper care, outdoor growth, and unfavorable quarters can cause flower health issues.

Phytophthora

Downy mildew is the rotting of the root system caused by fungal infection due to excessive moisture. Gradually, the disease spreads to the stem and shoots of the plant, which can lead to the death of the flower. First symptoms:

• renal failure;
• rolling leaves.

For processing, it is necessary to treat the soil and the azalea with "Fitoverm" or a liquid Bordeaux solution.

Rust

Azalea anthracnose or rust can develop when temperature is violated. If the air is heated above 23 ° C for a long time, characteristic symptoms of the disease appear:

• swollen spots of a brownish-red or yellow tint;
• the leaves fall from the plant.

To cure the azalea will help remedies based on copper compounds. The simplest drugs are liquid Bordeaux and Camulus.

gray rot

The appearance of gray rot on azaleas is associated with infection by a fungus of the genus Botrytis with poor ventilation and stagnant air. The spores affect the entire green part of the plant, including unopened buds. Symptoms of the disease:

• brownish-brown spots without a clear outline;
• quick drying of damaged areas.

To eliminate the problem, it is necessary to remove the diseased parts of the plant and, as a preventive measure, spray the ground and bushes with a solution of "Fundazol".

Spider

Symptoms of the appearance of spider mite larvae:

• yellowing of the plant;
• blackening, deformation and drying of leaves;
• the appearance of cobwebs.

To combat the pest, you can use insecticides such as Fitoverm, Karbofos or colloidal sulfur.

strawberry mite

Signs of an azalea infection with a strawberry mite include:

• slow down the development of the plant;
• irregular buds;
• twisted petals;
• the appearance of a brown shade of leaves.

You can get rid of the pest by washing the bush with soapy water and using Actellik solution.

Shield

The insects, better known as the acacia mealybug, are prevalent in the mid lane. The pests pierce the bark of the plant with a sharp proboscis and cling tightly to it, consuming the nutrients from the azalea juice. Symptoms of defeat:

• general weakness of the bushes;
• unhealthy appearance;
• progressive drying.

Control measures involve treatment with organic phosphorus preparations "Aktellik", "Karbofos" or neonicotinoids.

Beneficial Features

Growing azaleas indoors has a positive effect on indoor air quality. The flower removes harmful substances such as:

• ammonia;
• formaldehyde;
• xylene.

However, it should be remembered that the azalea contains a dangerous poison for mammals. Ingestion of this neurotoxin in food can cause severe poisoning.

Kinds

Azalea has many varieties, which differ in growth zone, appearance, color and shape of buds.In ornamental gardening, Indian and Japanese varieties are distinguished, as well as some hybrids.

Indian

The Indian azalea is distinguished by the following characteristics:

• the need to limit the roots and prune the crown;
• height 0.4-0.5 m;
• large size of flowers;
• variegated color of the petals with spots and borders.

Japanese

Typical characteristics of the Japanese azalea:

• height up to 0.5 m;
• dense crown shape;
• small mauve-colored buds;
• modesty.

Deciduous

The deciduous azalea is most often used in landscaping and is planted outdoors. Typical features of bushes:

• height 0.5-1 m;
• large flowers are collected in large inflorescences and have a rich palette;
• small glossy leaves change color in autumn and partially fall off;
• slow growth in the first years;
• high resistance to diseases and pests;
• unpretentious care;
• the ability to survive light frost.

Tips & Tricks

Special tips for growing azaleas:

1. If the plant wilts, it is necessary to inspect the soil, roots and shoots for diseases or pests. In case of absence, change the mode of humidification or apply additional fertilization.
2. An overdried azalea can be revived by moving it to the north side or placing ice around the pot. The air for the flower should be humidified as much as possible, and the foliage should be constantly sprayed.
3. Even if the azalea is well cared for, flowering may be poor. This may be due to dry hot air or direct sunlight.